Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano 750ml

Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with mature dark-skinned berry, leather, licorice and vanilla on this structured red. The full-bodied palate reflects the nose, delivering raspberry compote, star anise, crushed mint and hazelnut alongside firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink after 2023.

This is the last wine I tasted in this group of nine from Produttori del Barbaresco. The reason I placed the 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano last is because it is usually considered to be the most powerful and determined in the flight. However, when you really get down to it, this vintage is more tight, streamlined and ethereal than expected. It is saving the best for later, and indeed, the wine is poised to evolve and open fully many years from now. There is a note of shyness here or restraint.

This is supple and expressive, featuring strawberry, cherry, floral and freshly cut hay flavors on an elegant frame, undergirded by a stiff backbone of tannins, with racy acidity and a finish that melds the ripe fruity component with the structure. Tar, tobacco and licorice accents linger. Best from 2023 through 2045.