After just one sip, the grandeur here is apparent. While this is a youthful wine, there is incredible perfume, flavour intensity, and a super-refined finish. It is drinking, but will outrun many innocent Semillons by a mile. I was hypnotised by the sleek, super-cool lemon balm, white flower hints and minutes-long finish. It’s a stunning wine by a world-class winery.

In a region with as pronounced climactic variation as the Hunter Valley’s, vintage matters. 2022 saw plentiful rain and a late harvest. It’s resulted in a bright, aromatic Semillon that proves an excellent, affordable intro to this unique style. There are notes of preserved lemon, beeswax, lamp oil, white spice and dried herbs. The mouthfeel is round and textural, with zingy acidity. Floral, citrus and spice flow to the finish. This is a summer sipper to pair with seafood or crumbly cheeses.