This is the 40th-anniversary release of Soalheiro, a project launched by José António Cerdeira, from a parcel of vines he planted with his parents, dedicated solely to alvarinho rather than traditional mixed farming. Now run by his widow, Maria Cerdeira, and their two children, Luís and Maria João, Soalheiro has remained at the forefront of great white wine in Portugal. With a new “innovation cellar” completed in 2019, the family now produces a breadth of creatively conceived wines you might have to travel halfway around the world to match (think Chester Osborn’s portfolio at d’Arenberg). Still, the flagship is in top form in 2022: Here’s an alvarinho with insistent acidic energy, lasting through white-peach flavors and a lovely soft texture to mellow its fresh feel. Very long, well-built and suited to aging.

A lithe, vibrant offering, with a mouthwatering mix of nectarine, papaya and grated ginger notes, plus floral accents of elderflower and verbena. Lightly chalky in texture, which lends a bit of weight to the otherwise light-bodied frame, while a racy streak of salinity crackles on the finish. Drink now.